Genuine wood sliced-veneer sheets.
Selected single veneers, no sequence.
Fix length of 30 cm long.
Width: From 22 to 40 cm, depending on availability.
Thickness: 0.7 mm.
Sold by the sheet.
Warning: Please read the description hereunder carefully.
Genuine wood sliced-veneer sheets.
Selected single veneers, no sequence.
Fix length of 30 cm long.
Width: From 22 to 40 cm, depending on availability.
Thickness: 0.7 mm.
Sold by the sheet.
The width is rounded to the covered centimeter, for example, 15.8 cm, giving 15 cm.
To keep the cost of these products as cheap as possible and contrary to other veneers on this website, the pictures of small-size veneers do not represent the available stock.
This product is unsuitable for neophytes; like burls, Swirls are veneers with a lot of counter-grain and, therefore, can be warped; you must manage any cracks or open defects.
Like all burls, it is necessary to flatten the veneers, fill up some tiny black knots that are piercing, or use the cookie cutter technique for bigger knots.
Burls are made up of pin-knots, which gives them their particular character; this also means that some knots are piercing, and open splits are considered part of this type of wood.
After gluing, you can fill the small holes with wood putty to obtain a complete filling, or before gluing, cut out the larger holes with a cookie cutter and place a veneer washer of the same size taken from a scrap.
By nature, Burls, clusters, swirls, and crotches are specialties with a lot of counter-grain, and therefore, these veneers are often wavy; even when it has been pressed, they can remain slightly wavy.
To avoid splitting the wood during pressing, it is strongly recommended that the veneers be moistened before gluing (the more the wood is moist, the more it will become flexible and flat again).
Once the veneer is wet, you can press it and dry it at the same time (pressing the veneers with paper towels, which will absorb the moisture during pressing) or use a Polyurethane-type glue (often sold as exterior wood glue in supermarkets), which will stick stronger if the wood is damp, it will then be necessary to press with a counter board, weights, and clamps.
Poplar.
Poplar burl is also known as Mappa burl.
Populus nigra (black poplar).
Its botanical name refers to the color of its bark, not the color of its wood.
Northern Europe.
Numerous poplar hybrids are found on all temperate continents.
Poplar is a soft, lightweight wood.
Its wood is white with a colored heartwood, veined with pink and light yellow.
Weight: approximately 385 kg/m³ at 10-12% moisture content
Janka hardness: 2020 Newton. For comparison, ash is 6580 N, and grey poplar is 1650 N
Elasticity: 7.21 Gigapascals. For comparison, US maple is 12.62 GPa, and grey poplar is 9.75 GPa.
Tensile strength: 36 Megapascals. For comparison, US maple is 109 MPa, and grey poplar is 62 MPa.
Poplar is generally rotary-cut and used to produce plywood and food packaging crates/boxes.
Poplar is a plantation wood, easily recognizable by its plantation in rows.
One of Poplar's hybrids, European Aspen, is sliced (not rotary-cut) and used in decoration and furniture as a substitute for cherry.
In burl form, it is mainly used in decoration and manufacturing high-end furniture. This burl became a classic between the 17th and 19th centuries in Russia and Germany. In France, the golden age of Mappa Burl was in the 1960s and 1970s for high-end furniture.
In the past, it was said that a poplar should be planted at a child's birth, harvested at their wedding, and thus provide a dowry for the newlyweds.
Veneers are thin sheets of wood obtained by slicing or peeling.
Their surface has the appearance of planed wood without any finish or treatment. They are neither glued nor backed with any other material. This means that both faces of the sheets can be used.
Veneers are mainly used to cover less aesthetic substrates such as plywood or particleboard to make furniture or wall panels.
Wood veneers are also used to create decorative objects such as lamps, jewelry, bookmarks, and more.
By assembling several sheets of veneer on top of each other, it is possible to manufacture objects requiring high mechanical resistance, such as skis, bicycle frames, or musical instruments.
The applications of veneer are as varied as they are multiple.
Since veneers are genuine wood, all wood finishing products, whether varnish, stain, or oil, are suitable. The choice of finish will depend on your personal preferences and the final use of the object.
The veneer offered here is a sliced sheet of uniform thickness, but the thickness might differ from one species to another. The standard thickness is around 0.6 mm.
Although the edges of the veneers have been cut roughly straight, the cut is not perfectly parallel. Some veneers may retain the natural taper of the tree, being slightly wider at the foot than at the top.
Some veneers may have a trace of a waney edge (an edge following the tree's natural shape) on the sides. In this case, the dimensions indicated correspond to the minimum width of the veneer, as specified in the "Dimensions" paragraph.
Veneers can be easily cut with a utility knife.
For straight cuts, the best results are obtained with a veneer saw.
Use a fretsaw, scalpel, or veneer knife for curved cuts.
Always allow for a slightly larger veneer sheet than your intended surface. This will allow you to adjust the size after gluing for a clean finish.
A flush trimmer can also be used to trim the veneer after gluing.
When cutting with a utility knife or veneer knife, it is best to cut with the grain of the wood. To check this, run your finger along the edge of the sheet. The direction that feels smoothest is the ideal direction for cutting.
As the veneers have the width that nature gave us, you might need to cover an area wider than the veneers available.
Therefore, you need to splice the veneers by gluing or fixing them side by side with tape to obtain the desired width.
Trim the veneer's edges with a straight and smooth cut to realize good jointing.
Stick the veneers with tape (the blue one is a good choice.)
Usually, the veneers are spliced side by side, but to obtain a longer length, they can be done foot by foot.
The splicing must be done before gluing the veneers on the substrate.
Several types of gluing are possible.
Vinylic glue (PVA or PVB) is well adapted to porous substrates such as plywood, particle board, or MDF. The veneers must be pressed with clamps over the entire surface at once.
Note: A technique using vinylic glue and an iron can also be used to glue veneers, but we strongly recommend choosing this technique only if other gluing solutions are impossible.
- Neoprene glue is applied to all surfaces, especially non-porous surfaces, using two coats of glue and marouflage.
- Animal glue, such as hide, sinew, or bone glue, are pellets that must be cooked in a double boiler and used hot.
Veneers and all our products are genuine wood and can be sanded according to thickness.
Please do not use a belt sander, regardless of the thickness of the veneer, as this could pierce it.
With a 0.6 mm veneer, lightly sand with 120 grit and then finish with 180 or 240 grit. With an orbital sander, 180 grit is already sufficient for most applications.
All finishing products generally used for wood are suitable for finishing our products. For example, you can use a varnish, wax, paint, or oil.
However, ensure that the product you want to use is compatible with the final use of your creation.
Please look at our TUTORIALS; you might find some valuable tips.
Please get in touch with us by email or phone for any additional information.
Data sheet
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Genuine wood sliced-veneer sheets.
Selected single veneers, no sequence.
Fix length of 30 cm long.
Width: From 22 to 40 cm, depending on availability.
Thickness: 0.7 mm.
Sold by the sheet.
Warning: Please read the description hereunder carefully.
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